So I've started building up my 900ss for the track. I'm signed up for the WCSS course in April and with some luck should have the bike together by then and hopefully some race dates to follow. I can grasp the technical details of lock wire and such, as per the rule book, but any other specific questions I may have will end up in this thread. So to begin... I was about to pull the trigger on Race tech valves and springs but noticed some damage to one of the fork tubes, obviously caused from braided lines chaffing. I would like to just replace everything with new, but unfortunately, I do have a budget. So would this kind of wear pass tech inspection? More questions to follow...
Looks like it is in the thick part of the tube so I would think it's fine (but I don't work in tech). Make sure you wrap heat shrink or something on that part of the fork and the brake line where it's rubbing. Newer braided lines come wrapped in plastic to prevent this. You live in Woss? Now I don't feel bad travelling from Comox to Mission.
Wow. I'm not a tech inspector, I'm not a mechanic and have no idea how thick the walls are on a fork tube, but I'm personally worried about the integrity of that tube. The only thing I can go by is relating it to fire extinguishers that I am (was) qualified to inspect. If I saw that kind of damage on a fire extinguisher, I'd condemn it without a second thought. Have you mic'ed the depth of the gouges? Please let a GOOD shop mechanic look at that and make the call for you. Tell the mechanic you plan to road race with it. I know they could blow smoke up your a$$ in order to sell you a new fork tube but if everything went bad, it could be a catastrophic failure. Hopefully someone with more experience than me will chime in and show me to being over-reacting. Who knows. Maybe you and Dean can hook up and he can point you in the right direction.
For a bit of history, I have put around 10,000 km on this bike personally, 107,000 total. The previous owner at some point turned the fork tube around in the triple clamp to move the damaged area out of view. Who knows how long it's been this way? I would have no worries over running this fork over street and track forever. I wouldn't think the damage criteria would be as critical as a high pressure, thin steel walled fire extinguisher. But some things do have limits and if the fork has to go now is the time. I would hate to spend money on valves and springs then trailer over to the mainland just to find out my 20 year old Ducati won't pass tech. My goals are safe, fun and frugal racing. I could bring my 999 out to race but I have not the financial backing or emotional strength to watch my Superbike slide into the air fence
Paul, you have valid points and strike me as an intelligent and conscientious man. I hope my disclaimer compels you to consider my opinion just that. And know that I'll be the first to admit I'm uninformed in motorcycle mechanics.. I would hate for you to spend money unnecessarily on my account. That said, I'd hate for you to show up at the track and watch the Tech crew have kittens over the gouges. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will speak up soon.
Thanks John. I do appreciate any and all feedback. I'm going to bring the fork to a local fabricator tomorrow to see what he thinks.
Well to answer my own question, Ducati has stock on new fork tubes in Italy. So a replacement is on order. More to follow...
I wouldn't worry to much about the fork tube, rotate the scars to the inside (towards wheel) 90 deg to the braking force. Keep an eye on it for stress cracks. Ultimately your better off finding a better front end, those stock showa's were crap. I've raced my 900SS for 5 years so if you have any questions I'll be glad to help. Sound will be a problem, mine was in the low 90 db range with stock mufflers !!! Which will get you blacked flagged in a hurry. Full fairings with thick foam liners will help, (just like the stock set up). Your stock pipes will be a problem as well, they grind quite easily on the race track levering your back wheel off the ground (not good). A spaghetti system is nice but hard to find, or you can modify your stock system. (I can show you how) Rick
Paul, I had really good luck using car stereo sound deadening. You can use dynamat, brownbread or fat mat. I used Fat Mat, it was cheaper and seems to work well.
I dunno, in aviation we would call this a "stress riser". Def. "stress concentration [′stres ‚kän·sən‚trā·shən] A condition in which a stress distribution has high localized stresses; usually induced by an abrupt change in the shape of a member; in the vicinity of notches, holes, changes in diameter of a shaft, and so forth, maximum stress is several times greater than where there is no geometrical discontinuity." Me? I wouldn't.
Question #2 Do I require a full proper rear fender? Or would the kydex plate that's mounted around the rear shock suffice?
That's fine as long as it is securely mounted and doesn't flap around. Fenders are not required, but are nice to have when it rains.
I would saw off those forward sticking horns, if they are not covered by the seat... if and when you are departing the bike, you just want to go cleanly IMHO.
Thanks Jay, I've ordered a Sharkskinz tail cowl that should cover all the offending metal. Once I receive it and see how it installs, I may trim off any extra metal tabs. Unfortunately the cowl is back ordered, something about a race in Daytona tying up production?
